It's a dual-extrusion printer with two independently heated print heads, and it can print up to 300C, so there's no material it won't be able to handle. The 3D printing aspect of the Snapmaker Artisan is likely the most familiar, and the primary reason you're buying this. It may be space-saving compared to three separate industrial-sized machines, but it is not, by any definition, compact or desktop-sized.

The biggest takeaway from the Snapmaker Artisan design that I'd like to convey is that you will need a lot of space, not only for the enclosure, and the control system attached to the side of it, but also the box of different build plates, tool heads, and the toolbox. It's very explicit with instructions because it can be-it has such a large screen area to tell you what to do that you can't get confused at any step. It features a full metal enclosure and 7-inch color touchscreen, USB ports on the side and back, Wi-Fi connectivity, and is the most easy-to-use control system I've come across yet. Now, this is far more advanced than your average 3D printer control module. The Artisan also has a large control system attached to it (19 x 19 x 30cm, or 7.5 x 7.5 x 11.8 inches), with around ten cable bundles that go back to the machine, controlling each axis, the tool head, heated bed, extractor fan, and lighting, etc. But it looks pretty gnarly in terms of extra stuff you don't have to do when 3d printing, so I'm not sure it would be a good fit for Octoprint without substantial enhancements.But it's not just the enclosure you'll need to accommodate.

Lastly for CNC, we know that you can use Fusion to generate gcode for that mode ( SM manual), and I think drive the machine as well. There was someone on the Lightburn forum playing with a way to use that software to manage laser jobs and they found a lot of funky gcode. Looks like you can in theory control the machine via remote gcode for the other two modes - but it's all experimental stuff from what my research has found. G1 E-1 F300 retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure M140 S0 heated bed heater off (if you have it) Reference this official SM article with Cura & Fusion profiles which contain the Gcode scripts you need for successful prints via Octopi.īelow I'm pasting the gcode from that article: **Start G-Code** Once you start a print, do not adjust the temp using the screen, or your temps will zero out and the print will fail. Octoprint does work well for SM2, but there is a bug or two.

Snapmaker lightburn